Caresheets

The following information is intended as a quick, general reference for caring for ball pythons.  Please see the "References" section at the end of this care sheet for the titles of more comprehensive reading material.

Ball Pythons 

Written by: Julian Calcagno

Description

Ball Pythons(Python Regius) are a relatively small, thick bodied snake that can reach an average length of 3 - 5 feet and can potentially exceed 6 feet.  Their colour and pattern is highly variable among individuals and come in a variety of natural and designer "morphs".  Ball pythons have an average lifespan of 20 - 30 years with 47 years being the longest lived ball python recorded.

Ball pythons range from West to Central Africa where they primarily inhabit grasslands, savannahs and open woodlands.  They are terrestrial (ground dwelling) animals and commonly use rodent burrows and active or inactive termite mounds for shelter.  Ball Pythons are nocturnal (active at night) animals and leave these shelters at night to move and hunt for food.

The ball python is named so because of its tendency to protect its head by coiling the body around it when threatened.  This passive defensive nature can make a ball python a great pet as it will rarely bite as a form of defense.  It is also this passive nature that makes the ball python one of the most abused reptiles in the industry.

Housing

There are many options available for the ball python keeper to use.  Some of these options include: glass tanks, plastic tubs, professional/custom enclosures and rack systems.  Ball pythons can be successfully housed in each of the above mentioned enclosures but the method to do so varies.

Glass enclosures may be made specifically for reptiles or more commonly fish.  Either way the enclosure is constructed from glass and may have a screen or wire top.  When using a glass enclosure it is best to cover the back and two sides with a background so that your ball python does not feel exposed or insecure.  Glass is not the best material to retain heat and may be hard to heat if placed in a relatively cold room.  Screen or wire tops used to provide ventilation allow too much air to escape making humidity retention extremely difficult.  If a glass tank is placed in a room with a warmer ambient temperature and the screen or wire top is partially covered with plastic wrap, it may be used successfully for housing ball pythons.  There are other methods of partially covering the screen lid to retain moisture but through my own experience I have found that using plastic wrap is the easiest and most efficient way.

Plastic tubs come in a variety of makes and sizes and are the least expensive method of reptile housing.  They retain heat and humidity well, their lightweight allows them to be easily moved and cleaned, and transparent tubs provide a sense of security for the animal inside.  New tubs need a little customization before they may be used as appropriate reptile housing but this is not difficult.  One downside to using plastic tubs is that they may not be as attractive as using a glass tank or professional/custom enclosure but they can provide exactly what the animal needs to be happy and stress free.  I would recommend using plastic tubs over glass tanks to house ball pythons.

Professional/custom enclosures are great for housing reptiles of all kinds and are very attractive.  These enclosures are constructed of various materials and may be pre-made or custom built.  They are specifically designed for housing reptiles so you can't go wrong!  Usually these enclosures carry a hefty price tag so it would make sense to raise your baby ball python in a small, cheap plastic tub until it gets big enough to transfer into its final home.

Rack systems are used mainly by breeders or keepers who have a large collection of animals.  Racks hold plastic tubs, stacked on top of each other using as little area as possible to appropriately house a large number of animals.

Its best to start a baby ball python in a small enclosure and work up from there.  A good starting size would be a 10 gallon glass tank which measures 20"l x 10"w x 12"h or a plastic tub about those dimensions or shorter in height.  Ball pythons will do well in this size enclosure until they reach over two feet, then they must be moved into something bigger.  If a ball python is housed in too large an enclosure it may feel overwhelmed and become stressed out.  Stress can cause a ball python to stop feeding or even develop an illness that will cost you time and money at the vet's office.  It is best to prevent illness by practicing proper husbandry techniques, rather than treat it.

Ball pythons may be moved to a full sized adult enclosure after the first one but some timid ones may need a "one up" before they can be moved.  A suitable "one up" enclosure size may be 24"l x 12"w but remember that this size is not a permanent adult enclosure.  An adult ball python can be housed in an enclosure that measures 36"l x 18"w with varying height.  My adults are housed in racks containing plastic tubs that measure 36"l x 18"w x 6"h.  Being terrestrial animals, enclosure height is not too much of a concern, 6" to 12" is fine but i always make sure my ball pythons get enough floor space.

Inside the Enclosure

Hides

Ball pythons are shy, secretive animals that benefit greatly from dark, tight hiding spots.  Hiding spots provide a private area where a ball python can feel safe and secure.  Providing ball pythons with two identical hides, one on the warm end and one on the cool end, will allow the ball python to feel secure while properly thermoregulating.  Hides can be purchased at pet stores or home made out of inexpensive materials.

Water Bowl

Fresh water should be available at all times.  A water bowl with a good weight to it can help to prevent the snake from tipping it and soaking the cage.  An oversized water bowl is not necessary but may aid in achieving proper humidity levels.  Water bowls should not be placed above or beneath a heat source as a method of raising humidity.  Warm water promotes bacteria growth and you don't want your ball python drinking it.  Who wants to drink warm water anyway?  There are other more effective ways of boosting humidity inside the enclosure so place the water bowl in the middle of or on the cool end of the enclosure.

Substrate

There should always be some type of substrate on the bottom of your ball python's enclosure.  There are many options out there, including: aspen shavings, cypress mulch, coco fibre, newspaper and paper towels.  Some substrates retain moisture better than others and will aid in achieving proper humidity within the enclosure.  The substrate should remain dry or slightly moist (never wet) and should be spot cleaned daily and/or replaced when necessary.

Note: Substrates containing cedar or pine are harmful to many types of reptiles and should never be used with ball pythons.

Digital Thermometer/Hygrometer

Digital thermometers and hygrometers are one of the best investments a keeper can make while caring for any reptile.  Stick on thermometers and hygrometers are not at all accurate and should be avoided.  It is not acceptable to guess temperature as reptiles need to live within a certain temperature range to remain healthy.  Humidity levels should be monitored as well to ensure proper sheds and promote a healthy respiratory system.

Temperature, Humidity and Lighting

Temperature

Like most reptiles ball pythons need to live within a certain range of temperatures so that they can properly function.  Enclosures must have a specific temperature gradient to allow ball pythons to properly thermoregulate.  Ball pythons require an ambient temperature of approximately 80 degrees F and a basking area of approximately 90 degrees F.  The basking area should be no larger than 1/3 of the enclosures total floor space. Enclosure temperatures may remain constant and no night drop is required.  An enclosure that does not reach this gradient can cause illness, such as respiratory infection, in ball pythons.

Humidity

Humidity is an important factor in a ball python's health.  An enclosure with a constant low relative humidity can cause bad, flakey or retained sheds and respiratory problems.  If a snake is shedding in one piece without problems then the relative humidity inside the enclosure should be fine.  Usually perfect sheds occur with a relative humidity of 50% - 60% and if these levels remain constant then there is no need to boost humidity during a shed.

Lighting